For many, the notion of having a horse or pony for the small farmstead is very appealing. In the case of the urban homesteader with a few acres or less, however, they may not be feasible. If however local zoning laws permit them, they can be a positive addition to the homestead.
Taking on the care of an equine species is not to be considered lightly. Like other farm animals, they have their specific requirements for care and an additional burden of direct, sustained training, in addition to some potentially expensive equipment. Without these factors your horse or pony many fall into poor health and their behavior may turn downright dangerous. If however, you determine that you have an interest, and access to a suitable place to keep your prospective equine and train it, by all means, let's get started.
A Horse or a Pony?
This article serves as an introduction to those considering the suitability of such animals for their homestead farm. Read
'Sheep, Goats and the Small Farm' first if you have not kept stabled animals before.
The difference between a horse and a pony is both obvious and largely simple: size. Horses are the larger, taller of the species. Ponies are typically defined as animals 14 hands or less (a hand equals 4 inches, and is the usual measurement used for equine species). Their care is similar and their training also. After that there are some distinctive differences between the two groups.
While many first think of equines as companion animals used for pleasure riding, on the farmstead they serve the important role as help with managing the farmstead. Often engaged in pulling small wagons,carts and grass mowers, moving logs, small sheds or chicken tractors or used as carriage animals your equine may be greatly beneficial. They posses the unique advantage of not using fossil fuels; their exhaust is naturally organic and excellent fertilizer for your garden!
The choice of breed is partly individual and partly what their intended role on the homestead will be. The minimum grazing requirement for the average size horse of 15 to 16 hands doing light work is an acre per animal of good quality pasture and aproximately a bale of good quality hay per day per animal during winter, or as supplement during periods of insufficient forage. Equines directly engaged in daily work that works up a sweat on the animal, often require the addition of grains to the diet as well as free access to all the clean water they care to drink.
Ponies 12 to 14 hands require the same basic feed in proportionate quantity. Ponies however, often doing moderate work can thrive on good pasture or hay alone. In addition to the feedstuffs, a dry, well ventilated storage facility is necessary for horse feeds.
Equines must never be fed hay which has become wet in storage after baling or any grains which are questionable as a result of moisture or rodent contamination during storage. The equine species is unique in that their digestion is basically a one way process. This means that what goes into their mouth goes all the way through; if it is spoiled or moldy, the animal will surely suffer discomfort, illness or even death. Many a horse has fallen desperately ill due to consumption of spoiled feed.
Even over-eating of grains or other goodies such as apples can leave your equine desperately ill. Do not feed these items "free choice". Good management is the key to success on your small homestead farm. Due to size and feed requirements, many will choose the smaller sized pony or two ponies as the best fit for their land.
Ponies have the additional benefit that they often cost less to keep due to reduced feed expense and hoof care as compared to their larger cousins, the horses. And like other domesticated farm animals, equines are highly social, community based creatures. They need company for their good mental health. If you cannot have two horses or ponies, then a companion such as a goat, sheep or cow will suffice. Do not keep them alone without other suitable companions. It is quite cruel.
Care of Equines
Their requirements are similar to goats and sheep in terms of pasture. Horses need a clean, safe, well fenced pasture with free access to water and good shade in summer and shelter from the wind in winter. The soil should be well drained, but not dusty in dry weather as they are very susceptible to hoof ailments and respiratory illnesses.
A barn is desirable, but not necessary if protection from the winter wind and summer sun is provided. They, also like other species, benefit from a well managed pasture divided into smaller grazing sections, and like other species will graze a pasture very low, even killing the grass if not moved regularly. However unlike sheep or goats, horses are very picky about their greens. They will often refuse to graze in areas with weeds or brushy plants.
So while you may have sufficient acreage to keep them, the grasses available on those acres must be up to snuff with a system of pasture management in place. If this is not yet the case on your farmstead, wait to purchase your grazing animals until your pasture is improved or established, usually about 2-3 years. Allow your animals to graze the areas where the grass is 4-6 inches tall and move them when it is no less than one inch, about the height of a fresh mowed lawn. For an equine this may be as little as half a day in in a small section of a divided acre.
Their hooves must be cared for regularly, aproximately every 8 weeks. They need trimming and possibly shoeing by a competent, professional person called a 'Farrier.' This person is trained and often licensed by the state in which he/she works to care for equine feet. It is possible to learn to trim your animals' feet yourself. The task takes about 40 minutes for an experienced person to accomplish with an animal who has been taught the procedure and readily stands still for the trimming. All things considered, the Farrier may be well worth his fee. Your veterinarian or other horse owners can recommend ones who work in your area. They will customarily come to your farm. Neglecting the feet of equines often leads to a crippled animal. It must not be overlooked.
Equally important is the annual care of equine teeth. As grazers, their teeth continuously grow; it is necessary a qualified person examine and file or 'float' them one to two times a year. Usually your veterinarian can advise you on this procedure.
The fence required for equines is similar to goats and sheep and is usually a height of 4 feet; this height will contain most equines; however like goats and sheep, some equine are accomplished jumpers and may jump the fence, but this is not typical. Make certain you choose the correct wire for your fence. Horses have been known to catch a foot in the fence and injure themselves badly while trying to extract it. Avoid barbed wire fences for this reason. Also barbed wire allows the free movement of predators onto your pasture.
While horses have few natural enemies due to their size, domestic dogs can become a threat if not a major nuisance to the equine. Know that your equine's instinctive behavior to protect himself from surprise threats such as a dog or even you approaching suddenly is to kick; some animals will strike with the front legs, or even bite but this is not typical. Next they will attempt to flee. A startled horse is very determined and powerful. Avoid injury to your pets by keeping them away from farm animals unless you specifically require the services of a herding dog. Make some sort of noise when approaching an animal from the rear such as calling the animals name or low whistling. Watch for the ears moving. This will indicate they hear you and know you are behind them. Keep in mind that many equine sleep on their feet.
Breeds of Equines
For horses choose a breed that is known for calmness and willingness to work. The American Quarter horse is legendary; many mixed breeds are fine additions to the farm. Also consider the Morgan horse of the old style, who are bred for both saddle and farm work, as well as the German Halflinger, to name a few. A true draft breed, like a Belgian, Clydesdale or Shire is quite unnecessary and expensive to care for despite their typically calm disposition. Avoid Thoroughbreds and Arabians, or animals of these breeds mixed with any other breed. They often prove to be high strung and more appropriate for saddle riding than for calm work around a farm, or pulling a grass mower or carriage.
Within the pony breeds there are several which may prove ideal for your needs. Chiefly the Shetland pony of the old style bloodlines with a short, muscular neck and an overall appearance of a miniature draft horse, resembling a Belgian may serve you well. There are several others such as a Welsh or a Connemara, to name a few. What these animals share in common is a calm disposition, a small, manageable size and pound for pound, great strength, especially the Shetland pony. When choosing an animal, pony or horse, ask a lot of information about the animal, learn about the seller.
Ask for the required health and vaccination certificates. Also ask if your veterinarian can examine the animal prior to purchase, or if you may return the animal within 30 days of purchase should it prove unsuitable. An honest seller will not find these requests unreasonable and may agree. Do not purchase animals without the proper vaccinations and health certificates whether you will take it to another state or not.
As for you, when you make the decision to purchase an equine, you must also protect your own health by seeing a health professional for a tetanus shot (jab) for you and all your family members before you bring the animal home. Equines transmit specific diseases like Tetanus for which the only cure is prevention.
Horses live a long life, about 20 years and ponies even longer, 30 years is not unheard of. A younger animal is more valuable than an older animal. An animal with a high degree of training is more valuable than a younger animal with less or minimal training. There is an old saying when considering the purchase price of an equine: a horse (or pony) is worth whatever you're willing to pay for it, and an animal is only as good as its legs. Like an athlete, an equine with numerous injuries, especially to the knees or long bones of the front legs is worth potentially very little as it is likely to be lame a good deal of time.
Before proceeding with your purchase ask for information from your local agricultural university, extension agent; read a great deal about equine health and training. Your veterinarian can be a good guide in the process of learning what to spot in a prospective equine purchased for your small homestead.
Avoid falling for, or fondness for the animal before you bring it home for good; it may disappoint you; you may not buy it after all. With advance planning and preparation, adding an equine to your small farmstead can be both beneficial and really wonderful.
