Thinking about keeping bees?
Today there is great concern over the future of honey bees, especially in the United States. Loss of bee keepers and insect diseases have ravished the nation's bee population. However the trend is changing towards a bright future both for bees and their keepers.
Many are aware of the issues surrounding bees, and many municipalities have relaxed their zoning rules to allow not only chickens to be kept in America's towns and cities, but bees as well. As a sweetener, there's nothing quite like honey.
Honey is undeniably nature's most unique sweetener. While made by bees themselves as a method to store carbohydrates for later use during lean times of little or no food collection, honey has been also savored by people for thousands of years. It is remarkable first by its raw ingredients, plant nectar and by the way the bees thicken that product into a store-able conserve.
Honey has known, if slight, anti-microbial properties, but is also not safe to feed to children less than 12 months of age; its natural sweet composition is a complex sugar and is low glycemic; it possesses long storage properties-- indeed edible honey has been recovered from tombs of ancient Egyptians and is still edible after more than a thousand years storage! Excellent for cooking, pourable and drinkable it is truly an amazing product. The wax produced by bees is equally valued. This article serves as a short introduction to bee keeping. Let's get started
Bee keeping is both an art and a science. For the small homesteader or backyard farmer, bees are eminent for producing natural, sweet products as well as bee pollens and propolis which some believe have unique health properties. There is however the prospect of getting stung--literally by your little charges. While you have your priorities, the bees have their own, and frankly from the bees' point of view they are mutually exclusive. You coveting of their stored honey isn't any reason they should give it to you!
Bees Sting, Don't They?
For many, fears of being stung deter them from making the introduction to these wonderful creatures. True, you may be stung in the course of interacting with your hived bees, but know that modern bees are bred to emphasise a gentle, peaceable nature. There have been bees bred by some attempting improvements to the insects' overall health by introducing 'African' strains into the genetic pool; this does demonstrably increase their aggressive, possessive traits. Yet Africanized strains may easily be avoided by dealing with established, reputable sources for both supplies and the bees themselves.
Learning For Success
Like other aspects of farming, both small acres or many acres, planning is required and a deliberate approach brings success. Bees, in short, are sophisticated creatures. They live in complex groups, in what we refer to collectively as the 'hive.' You can best prepare for your bees arrival by not just buying a hive and related equipment but by reading all you can about them and their behavior in addition to their methods of honey production. Also in the first years or so, you'll appreciate the support and knowledge of experienced beekeepers. In most parts of the country there are bee keeping clubs, whose members are eager to share their knowledge, and some may become friends. Become first involved with bees as a student and an observer; while bee keeping is an art and many have their methods to success, it is also a science. A good number of scientists have devoted their adult lives to learning about bees and the products they make. Their efforts have produced a great deal of useful knowledge just in the past decade which has a great impact on controlling or eliminating the diseases and perils which previously robbed hives of their vitality.
Getting Started
First and most important, acquire the knowledge you need to successfully care for your bees. While they may be just insects, they are expensive insects to acquire and require specific housing which is also surprisingly expensive. Expect to spend a year at least learning about bees. Reading about them in the winter months, participating with a beekeeper club during the growing season, watching hives grow, seeing honey produced and stored and finally learning about collecting the excess honey for your use and caring for your bees during cold, winter months will be most valuable. Many county extension services are now offering low cost or even free introduction to bee keeping classes; some community colleges also offer these courses. Check their community enrichment or not for credit offerings. Each state has some licensing procedure for selling honey to others off the farm. State bee inspection offices are a possible source for information to get started with bees.
After you have learned the fundamentals of bee keeping, learned about which practices are best suited to your locale and which breeds of bees --there are several-- succeed in your area, the late winter months are the time to purchase your hives and equipment. You will want to order bees for spring delivery at this time. Don't forget about the queens! A hive will not likely function without the ever important queen. She may also be easily purchased to start with. The cost of each hive varies by materials used. Expect to pay between 150.00 and 300.00 dollars for each hive comprising about three boxes and other small, necessary parts. You will also need some protective gear and a smoker plus other paraphernalia. If your hives come without frames, the part the bees will use to build comb on, they will need to be included in the cost at several dollars each.
Next come the bees and the queen. Bees are sold mostly as 'nucs,' or nucleus groups of bees that will require some care and feeding when they arrive, or as 'package bees.' A package bee is exactly as the term suggests, bees that come in a package or small container. They are mature insects, ready to work establishing a hive upon arrival under proper conditions. However plan on caring and feeding them also when they arrive, until they are able to collect or produce enough food to feed themselves as a hive colony. The care and feeding of bees is not unlike other farm animals. They require food, water, sufficient shelter from the weather and protection from predators.
Establishing a 'Bee Yard'
Determining the location of your bees to form what is often called the 'bee yard' is a matter of logical sense-- the bees logical sense, that is. As already mentioned your bees need a hive for their basic shelter and critical food storage point. The familiar 'box' hive, called supers is the standard today. The quaint skef or skep, something like a woven conical basket, of the past is not to be used due to the discovery that it may encourage diseases in your hive. It is best to raise your hives some amount off the ground to prevent flooding, rot and intrusion by insects such as ants, termites and beetles. Select a location that gets some shade in summer and sun in winter.
There should be a good, steady source of water nearby. If not, try filling a waterer with 10-20 gallons of water is sufficient. Refill as needed. Farm supply stores have these waterers, often used for other livestock. They often prefer moving water like a small foutain. Your bees may accept an already existing stock tank for their water needs. While it is true that bees can and do fly great distances for water, why make it hard for them? Having water available makes good bee sense.
When the hives are set, make sure they are secure so that wind or other things like raccoons and skunks don't easily tip them over. If you live in bear country or areas with other large, honey loving animals, you may want to fence your bee yard to discourage the would be robbers. For some, placing hives in an established pasture proves ideal if the other conditions of shelter are met there.
Another consideration about placement is concern for poisoning. Today's farmer produces in abundant quantity; it's his or her livelihood. Yet when it comes to bees, farmers are often quite unaware of the effect their production methods have. University research now indicates that chemicals farmers routinely use to grow their crops, such as corn and soybeans, may often be detrimental to the health of bees (And curiously bees as a rule don't seek soybean flowers until there is no other wildflowers or garden type flowers to be visited).
It seems bees really do like what we call weeds most of all. Consider the prevailing winds; will a neighboring farm operation likely blow dust or over-spray into your bee yard? Can anything become a natural barrier to these potential poisons? Will your neighbors consider spraying or somewhat altering their application practices to protect your bees? In many states this is not simply a favor, it's the law, but hard to enforce. Enlisting good-will may be the best approach.
The topic of territory, that is the bee's territory is important to consider. Yes, bees are territorial. They may be insects, but they are darn smart bugs. Some hive communities take a laissez-faire attitude to others in their immediate vicinity whether human or animal. They are not especially agitated by visitors. Mind you not stand close or directly in front of their hive, aka the front door; this may change the calculus and their attitude considerably. There are other hives that are more readily alarmed. When you work with your bees, you'll quickly learn their comfort level towards you and others animals. Calm bees go about their business; alarmed bees are quite determined to learn yours. This type of hive community may need and appreciate more breathing room as part of the bee yard to avoid unnecessary agitation.
Last of all where you place your bee yard may be influenced by predators. As already mentioned bees have predators. Some, mostly, like to rob the honey and other goods from a hive, often knocking it over to accomplish the heist, while a few are interested in the bees themselves. The list of honey robbers includes both mammals and insects. Bears, skunks, raccoons, dogs, rats, mice; also wasps, beetles, other bees from different colonies, hornets among others are known for entering bee hives either to eat honey or bees, especially their larvae. Last of all on the list is the human. Occasionally hives do go missing in the night, something more likely to occur if you have a large numbers of hives. Honey is a valued commodity.
Start Your Bees Right
In most areas of the country you will want to receive your bees, including the queen in mid to late April. Many prefer to purchase package bees, sold by the pound. A typical package costs about 75.00 to 140.00 dollars; often one package is sufficient for starting your hive colony. Check with the breeder or supplier if in doubt. Check with the breeder or supplier before you order about how you can get the bees to your home; often you must go to the breeder to pick up your bees. Some mailers will not handle bees. They are also afraid of stings! Usually the US Postal Service alone will handle bees for shipment. At the same time you will want to arrange for the queen who will head your hive. She typically costs between 10.00 and 25.00 dollars each. The queen also may come in a package of her own.
She brings the true meaning of 'queen bee' to light. Each hive colony has only one queen. Indeed queens will not tolerate any others; if the queen dies or proves infertile, the hive is in peril. She really is that important. Once your package, usually about three pounds of live bees with or without a queen, arrives, place the opened package into the chamber of the hive, called the body, in which they will live and set to work building comb cells for the anticipated brood soon to be reared there. Initially these bees will required feeding with a sugar syrup solution and often a pollen substitute for protein until they have settled in and the surrounding fields are producing enough forage for their needs.
About the Queen
When your bees begin foraging, watch the entrance to the hive closely. This will give good indication about the health of the hive colony. Many bees rushing in an out, few bees dead on the ground are good indications all is well. However, lots of dead bees around and few rushing in and out is a very bad sign indeed.
Gathering Honey and Pollen
As mentioned, the late summer and fall are times to look into the hive to collect honey and pollen. For a bee, both are vital to their health. Honey is carbohydrates plus minerals and pollen is protein. When you open your hive, you will want to quiet the bees who are ever vigilant against robbers, including you! Using a sugar water mixture sprayed over the hive when you open it may do the trick or a smoker may be used. The smoke makes the bees a bit disoriented long enough for you to get the job done. You will need two tools, a hive tool and another called a comb knife to cut away the bees wax so the frames filled with honey may be removed from the hive and extracted; after removing the frames, place them in a large enough container-- some will be dripping with honey, and you'll have some bees buzzing around too. Re-cover the hive when you're done and take the frames a good distance from the hive to an interior location so you can uncap the cells and extract the honey.
You may have some bees accompanying you there too. Smoke will often discourage them from following. To extract honey, use an extractor which is just for this purpose. They cost between $100.00 to more than $500.00 for a fully electric, high volume unit. As the honey is extracted, place a large bucket or pan at the spout to catch it.
You may then place filtered honey into smaller jars for easy use or store the honey in a tightly lidded bucket. Store it in a cool, dry place. Keep the exterior of your containers free of honey in storage. Honey is a great starter for molds and fungus which will ruin it if it grows inside.
Pollen is collected using a screen inserted into the hive to catch it as it falls. Read further references if you are interested. After you have completed collection, it's time to think about winter--again.
Just remember, your introduction to bees will be a success when taken one step at a time, allowing you to prepare for this next adventure in farming self sufficiency. For more information, check with your state agricultural university, county extension service, state bee inspectors, the many book books available in your public library, on line internet sources, bee keepers' organizations, bee keeping magazines and individual bee keepers.
Honey is undeniably nature's most unique sweetener. While made by bees themselves as a method to store carbohydrates for later use during lean times of little or no food collection, honey has been also savored by people for thousands of years. It is remarkable first by its raw ingredients, plant nectar and by the way the bees thicken that product into a store-able conserve.
Honey has known, if slight, anti-microbial properties, but is also not safe to feed to children less than 12 months of age; its natural sweet composition is a complex sugar and is low glycemic; it possesses long storage properties-- indeed edible honey has been recovered from tombs of ancient Egyptians and is still edible after more than a thousand years storage! Excellent for cooking, pourable and drinkable it is truly an amazing product. The wax produced by bees is equally valued. This article serves as a short introduction to bee keeping. Let's get started
Bee keeping is both an art and a science. For the small homesteader or backyard farmer, bees are eminent for producing natural, sweet products as well as bee pollens and propolis which some believe have unique health properties. There is however the prospect of getting stung--literally by your little charges. While you have your priorities, the bees have their own, and frankly from the bees' point of view they are mutually exclusive. You coveting of their stored honey isn't any reason they should give it to you!
Bees Sting, Don't They?
For many, fears of being stung deter them from making the introduction to these wonderful creatures. True, you may be stung in the course of interacting with your hived bees, but know that modern bees are bred to emphasise a gentle, peaceable nature. There have been bees bred by some attempting improvements to the insects' overall health by introducing 'African' strains into the genetic pool; this does demonstrably increase their aggressive, possessive traits. Yet Africanized strains may easily be avoided by dealing with established, reputable sources for both supplies and the bees themselves.
Learning For Success
Like other aspects of farming, both small acres or many acres, planning is required and a deliberate approach brings success. Bees, in short, are sophisticated creatures. They live in complex groups, in what we refer to collectively as the 'hive.' You can best prepare for your bees arrival by not just buying a hive and related equipment but by reading all you can about them and their behavior in addition to their methods of honey production. Also in the first years or so, you'll appreciate the support and knowledge of experienced beekeepers. In most parts of the country there are bee keeping clubs, whose members are eager to share their knowledge, and some may become friends. Become first involved with bees as a student and an observer; while bee keeping is an art and many have their methods to success, it is also a science. A good number of scientists have devoted their adult lives to learning about bees and the products they make. Their efforts have produced a great deal of useful knowledge just in the past decade which has a great impact on controlling or eliminating the diseases and perils which previously robbed hives of their vitality.
Getting Started
First and most important, acquire the knowledge you need to successfully care for your bees. While they may be just insects, they are expensive insects to acquire and require specific housing which is also surprisingly expensive. Expect to spend a year at least learning about bees. Reading about them in the winter months, participating with a beekeeper club during the growing season, watching hives grow, seeing honey produced and stored and finally learning about collecting the excess honey for your use and caring for your bees during cold, winter months will be most valuable. Many county extension services are now offering low cost or even free introduction to bee keeping classes; some community colleges also offer these courses. Check their community enrichment or not for credit offerings. Each state has some licensing procedure for selling honey to others off the farm. State bee inspection offices are a possible source for information to get started with bees.
After you have learned the fundamentals of bee keeping, learned about which practices are best suited to your locale and which breeds of bees --there are several-- succeed in your area, the late winter months are the time to purchase your hives and equipment. You will want to order bees for spring delivery at this time. Don't forget about the queens! A hive will not likely function without the ever important queen. She may also be easily purchased to start with. The cost of each hive varies by materials used. Expect to pay between 150.00 and 300.00 dollars for each hive comprising about three boxes and other small, necessary parts. You will also need some protective gear and a smoker plus other paraphernalia. If your hives come without frames, the part the bees will use to build comb on, they will need to be included in the cost at several dollars each.
Next come the bees and the queen. Bees are sold mostly as 'nucs,' or nucleus groups of bees that will require some care and feeding when they arrive, or as 'package bees.' A package bee is exactly as the term suggests, bees that come in a package or small container. They are mature insects, ready to work establishing a hive upon arrival under proper conditions. However plan on caring and feeding them also when they arrive, until they are able to collect or produce enough food to feed themselves as a hive colony. The care and feeding of bees is not unlike other farm animals. They require food, water, sufficient shelter from the weather and protection from predators.
Establishing a 'Bee Yard'
Determining the location of your bees to form what is often called the 'bee yard' is a matter of logical sense-- the bees logical sense, that is. As already mentioned your bees need a hive for their basic shelter and critical food storage point. The familiar 'box' hive, called supers is the standard today. The quaint skef or skep, something like a woven conical basket, of the past is not to be used due to the discovery that it may encourage diseases in your hive. It is best to raise your hives some amount off the ground to prevent flooding, rot and intrusion by insects such as ants, termites and beetles. Select a location that gets some shade in summer and sun in winter.
There should be a good, steady source of water nearby. If not, try filling a waterer with 10-20 gallons of water is sufficient. Refill as needed. Farm supply stores have these waterers, often used for other livestock. They often prefer moving water like a small foutain. Your bees may accept an already existing stock tank for their water needs. While it is true that bees can and do fly great distances for water, why make it hard for them? Having water available makes good bee sense.
When the hives are set, make sure they are secure so that wind or other things like raccoons and skunks don't easily tip them over. If you live in bear country or areas with other large, honey loving animals, you may want to fence your bee yard to discourage the would be robbers. For some, placing hives in an established pasture proves ideal if the other conditions of shelter are met there.
Another consideration about placement is concern for poisoning. Today's farmer produces in abundant quantity; it's his or her livelihood. Yet when it comes to bees, farmers are often quite unaware of the effect their production methods have. University research now indicates that chemicals farmers routinely use to grow their crops, such as corn and soybeans, may often be detrimental to the health of bees (And curiously bees as a rule don't seek soybean flowers until there is no other wildflowers or garden type flowers to be visited).
It seems bees really do like what we call weeds most of all. Consider the prevailing winds; will a neighboring farm operation likely blow dust or over-spray into your bee yard? Can anything become a natural barrier to these potential poisons? Will your neighbors consider spraying or somewhat altering their application practices to protect your bees? In many states this is not simply a favor, it's the law, but hard to enforce. Enlisting good-will may be the best approach.
The topic of territory, that is the bee's territory is important to consider. Yes, bees are territorial. They may be insects, but they are darn smart bugs. Some hive communities take a laissez-faire attitude to others in their immediate vicinity whether human or animal. They are not especially agitated by visitors. Mind you not stand close or directly in front of their hive, aka the front door; this may change the calculus and their attitude considerably. There are other hives that are more readily alarmed. When you work with your bees, you'll quickly learn their comfort level towards you and others animals. Calm bees go about their business; alarmed bees are quite determined to learn yours. This type of hive community may need and appreciate more breathing room as part of the bee yard to avoid unnecessary agitation.
Last of all where you place your bee yard may be influenced by predators. As already mentioned bees have predators. Some, mostly, like to rob the honey and other goods from a hive, often knocking it over to accomplish the heist, while a few are interested in the bees themselves. The list of honey robbers includes both mammals and insects. Bears, skunks, raccoons, dogs, rats, mice; also wasps, beetles, other bees from different colonies, hornets among others are known for entering bee hives either to eat honey or bees, especially their larvae. Last of all on the list is the human. Occasionally hives do go missing in the night, something more likely to occur if you have a large numbers of hives. Honey is a valued commodity.
Start Your Bees Right
In most areas of the country you will want to receive your bees, including the queen in mid to late April. Many prefer to purchase package bees, sold by the pound. A typical package costs about 75.00 to 140.00 dollars; often one package is sufficient for starting your hive colony. Check with the breeder or supplier if in doubt. Check with the breeder or supplier before you order about how you can get the bees to your home; often you must go to the breeder to pick up your bees. Some mailers will not handle bees. They are also afraid of stings! Usually the US Postal Service alone will handle bees for shipment. At the same time you will want to arrange for the queen who will head your hive. She typically costs between 10.00 and 25.00 dollars each. The queen also may come in a package of her own.
She brings the true meaning of 'queen bee' to light. Each hive colony has only one queen. Indeed queens will not tolerate any others; if the queen dies or proves infertile, the hive is in peril. She really is that important. Once your package, usually about three pounds of live bees with or without a queen, arrives, place the opened package into the chamber of the hive, called the body, in which they will live and set to work building comb cells for the anticipated brood soon to be reared there. Initially these bees will required feeding with a sugar syrup solution and often a pollen substitute for protein until they have settled in and the surrounding fields are producing enough forage for their needs.
About the Queen
Do not immediately release the queen! Allow about 2-3 days for the
workers to accustom themselves to her. She may then be able to release
herself or you will need to release her in the hive. After about a week, the queen will be accustomed to the hive. The others quickly learn of her presence and will help her out of her box if need be. She wastes no time laying eggs. Wait several days and check your hive again by opening the top. If your queen is well, you will see workers caring for her, feeding and cleaning her. They also will be actively capping and caring for brood, bee larvae. If you cannot locate the queen, watch the workers for clues about her health and activities. As the season progresses, the healthy hive will expand both in numbers and quantity of stored foods. It is in late summer or early fall that you may have enough stores which can be shared between you and your bees. There are formulas which help determine the proper amount to extract from a hive so that the bees are not left destitute in winter. However, be prepared to feed your bees in cold weather. If not they may well starve.
When your bees begin foraging, watch the entrance to the hive closely. This will give good indication about the health of the hive colony. Many bees rushing in an out, few bees dead on the ground are good indications all is well. However, lots of dead bees around and few rushing in and out is a very bad sign indeed.
Gathering Honey and Pollen
As mentioned, the late summer and fall are times to look into the hive to collect honey and pollen. For a bee, both are vital to their health. Honey is carbohydrates plus minerals and pollen is protein. When you open your hive, you will want to quiet the bees who are ever vigilant against robbers, including you! Using a sugar water mixture sprayed over the hive when you open it may do the trick or a smoker may be used. The smoke makes the bees a bit disoriented long enough for you to get the job done. You will need two tools, a hive tool and another called a comb knife to cut away the bees wax so the frames filled with honey may be removed from the hive and extracted; after removing the frames, place them in a large enough container-- some will be dripping with honey, and you'll have some bees buzzing around too. Re-cover the hive when you're done and take the frames a good distance from the hive to an interior location so you can uncap the cells and extract the honey.
You may have some bees accompanying you there too. Smoke will often discourage them from following. To extract honey, use an extractor which is just for this purpose. They cost between $100.00 to more than $500.00 for a fully electric, high volume unit. As the honey is extracted, place a large bucket or pan at the spout to catch it.
You may then place filtered honey into smaller jars for easy use or store the honey in a tightly lidded bucket. Store it in a cool, dry place. Keep the exterior of your containers free of honey in storage. Honey is a great starter for molds and fungus which will ruin it if it grows inside.
Pollen is collected using a screen inserted into the hive to catch it as it falls. Read further references if you are interested. After you have completed collection, it's time to think about winter--again.
Just remember, your introduction to bees will be a success when taken one step at a time, allowing you to prepare for this next adventure in farming self sufficiency. For more information, check with your state agricultural university, county extension service, state bee inspectors, the many book books available in your public library, on line internet sources, bee keepers' organizations, bee keeping magazines and individual bee keepers.
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